How long to replace a steering column?

Changing the entire steering column complete with the housing and all housed components is an easy job on your GMC.

Under the hood:

Raise the hood and turn the steering wheel until the pinch bolt on the detachable flange closest to the firewall is straight up and down and remove that bolt.

Tap the detachable flange with a hammer until it loosens grip on the shaft from the steering column.

Remove the cotter pin from the shift arm linkage and disconnect the linkage from the shift arm and push the linkage rod aside.

Inside the truck:

Remove the column cover under the dash.

Access the electrical harness connections to the steering column and uncouple the connectors.

Remove the 4 bolts that hold the steering column support plate to the firewall.

Remove the 2 bolts from the hanger bracket securing the steering column to the dash.

Remove the steering column.

You will probably need someone to tap on that detachable flange you unbolted under the hood until the steering column shaft slides out of it and you will probably need to maneuver the steering column until the shift arm clears the opening in the firewall.

Install the replacement column in the reverse order as you removed the column.

It’s an easy 1 hour job for an amateur but can be done in 30 minutes by an experienced mechanic.

Steering Column Replacement

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I’m so glad I save old sent emails….. Ok spelling and grammar is bad…. But this may help/ Well saying its jamed is not enought information. I have a feeling your talking about the lock cylinder since even if your actual ignition switch messed up being able to turn the key IF the lock cyclinder is good is highly likely. Basically saying the key is stronger than the “jamed” switch. Lets say I’m right in assuming your its just the lock cylinder not turning like your putting in the wrong key. Ok FIRST get out a can of carb cleaner, a rag and some kind of comressed air either a keyboard cleaner (compressed air in a can) or if you have a air compressor hose and sprayer “gun”. Shoot some carb cleaner in work the key in and out a few times and spray the compressed air in the hole WITH the rag around the “gun” to catch the dirty carb cleaner. AND repeat a few time. DOn’t let the cleaner sit in to long before blowing it out. Now if that doesn’t work try having a new “FACTORY” cut made NOT A COPY. I have never cared or looked for a “key shop” that can copy thoes keys I ALLWAYS get a factory NON COPY key made when needed or if the old key its self was the problem. Never use anything other than graphite in the key holes no WD-40 or any kind of oil. That is what may have caused the problem in the first place..

Providing you don’t run into any other problems such as broken inner connections and electronic resetting then the worst part about this job is how fiddly it is as opposed to being time consuming…