Answer is NO. And what type of racing…autoX, drag, drift, endurance, etc? Accords are in no way designed to be used as a platform for racing. The Accords you may have seen on T.V. racing are running tubular chasis’ and subframes…they are basically a fiberglass molded body dropped onto a tubular chasis that has been built specifically for racing purposes. So in essence, they are no longer Accords. Any other Accords have been stripped down so much to reduce weight, before you know it you are riding in nothing but the subframe. Even then, tons of mods are made to the body to strengthen the chasis. Racing an Accord would be nearly the same as strapping a Honda motor to a boat anchor and racing around the track…I drifted a Camary station-wagon once, what a mess! The Accord Type-R (1998-2003) was limited to the European market. It had a H22A7 making 212bhp and 158lb-ft.The Accord Euro-R (2003-2007) was limited to the Japanese and European markets. It has the same engine as the 2002-2006 RSX Type-R, a K20A making 220bhp and 158lb-ft. After the 2006 model, the RSX was discontinued.These models are “sporty”, but that is as far as it gets…despite that the “R” stands for racing. You’d be better off with an ITR or CTR, than an Accord Type-R/Euro-R.The best Honda for racing? One choice, 1987 and up CR-X’s. The short wheel-base make the CR-X very nimble, as well as the CR-X being lightweight. Few mods need to be performed to the body for racing [unless drag racing]. Every other Honda has a weak body structure, in other words, you’ll need major welding on the chasis and subframe to increase chasis/subframe rigidity to handle the stress of any type of racing [ITR & CTR models excluded, but still require some minor modifications].The worst Honda for racing is the Civic hatchback, specifically the 1992-1995 models. The chasis design is very weak, especially in the rear section. I own a 1993 Civic CX hatchback, and I had to weld a 10 point roll cage in the rear to stiffen and reduce chasis flex. In addition I re-welded over seams and joints and added fabricated sheet metal in problematic spots. I swapped a K20A into my hatch two-years ago, and have since swapped the K20 block for a K24 block because the K24 block makes more torque. I plan to use forced-induction by means of a custom turbine system producing more than 500whp. So I will most likely have to re-work the body to account for the large increase in horsepower/torque. As of now, the K20/24A makes 243whp and 181lb-ft....
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